Typhoon H wont descend
- Thread starter Dave I
- Start date
Here is what I have now after fw notification process, took a short test flight Sunday, all went well, flew hovered descended without a glitch. A question, craft did not want to start without a camera installed, a steady fast beep, powered down and installed camera, connected and worked well. Last concern, upon installing camera noticed only 2 pins hplding gymbal to the camera chassis, all four rubber grommets but the grommetts were only attached on one side, is this normal, otherwise all good, thank you so much for the great advice and I will pass it on Dave I
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Good news on the successful flight.
The fast steady beep is probably not associated with the camera. If the beeping was coming from the controller, it is most likely caused by the right stick not being centered. You need to check hardware monitor again to ensure both channels on the right hand stick are returning to center cleanly when released. If not, stir the stick around vigorously for a few seconds to see if it will clear the issue.
It is normal to have only two damper pins installed, but they should be in corners diagonal to each other. Normally one pin is in the right rear damper, the other in the left front.
All four dampers should be attached on both ends.
Without the camera, you're loosing only the secondary control channel, forgot their name. You will not see or hear anything in this situation. Beeps are from not centred sticks, which prevents the start-up of the motors.
Right on on both accounts, J3 is a hair low on hardware monitor, slight pressure down centers it to normal green like all others, tried swirling still a hair low (brighter green) I have the wd40 contact cleaner, do I need to open cases or is there an access from the outside, Item two the gymbal shock grommets on the two unpinned grommets are not attached (floating) on the top, should they be in the holes?
No access. You should open the case. When open it, don't be hurry to close. Drop a message here. You should check the stability fixing of the pots.
Definitely yes.
"do I need to open cases or is there an access from the outside"
You can try spraying in from the front. A bit messy, but you might get enough in the right spot. If not, you will have to try one of the next methods.
The next try would be to use the small access holes on the back of the controller. Again, messy, but doesn't hurt anything. This video is a good reference:
If you have to open the case, Attachment 41 (Control Stick Gimbal Maintenance) of Way To Fix Drones project will show you what to look for.
"Item two the gymbal shock grommets on the two unpinned grommets are not attached (floating) on the top, should they be in the holes?"
Yes. All should be in the holes.
Open the case, I strongly recommend this. Probably the pots aren't well fixed too.
No problem to try all the rest "methods", but spraying somewhere with something is not my business.
No problem to try all the rest "methods", but spraying somewhere with something is not my business.
1. Get a tooth stick.
2. Put in the hole the one side of the rubber ring.
3. Gently hold flat the stick and press another side under the board and at the same moment hold firmly both plastic plates.
3". variation. Hold firmly the plates and catch the rubber from the hole and pull up.
20 - 30 tries and you will be an expert.
If till tomorrow you're still not an expert, I'll ask someone to prepare some pictures for you when I do this trick. Now I should go to the job.
My tomorrow (GMT +3), because I don't know where are you.
2. Put in the hole the one side of the rubber ring.
3. Gently hold flat the stick and press another side under the board and at the same moment hold firmly both plastic plates.
3". variation. Hold firmly the plates and catch the rubber from the hole and pull up.
20 - 30 tries and you will be an expert.
If till tomorrow you're still not an expert, I'll ask someone to prepare some pictures for you when I do this trick. Now I should go to the job.
My tomorrow (GMT +3), because I don't know where are you.
Like @Vaklin says, 20-30 tries, and you ought to get good at it. The dampers have been a pain forever. And almost everyone has a different way.
The basic way it to pinch it flat, stick one edge in the hole, and work the rest of it in.
Some wrap (don't tie) a piece of dental floss around it, and pull it through the hole.
Some pinch it with a pair of tweezers and shove it in while trying not to puncture it.
None are really easy the first time.
You can only hope not to do it often enough to get good at it.
The basic way it to pinch it flat, stick one edge in the hole, and work the rest of it in.
Some wrap (don't tie) a piece of dental floss around it, and pull it through the hole.
Some pinch it with a pair of tweezers and shove it in while trying not to puncture it.
None are really easy the first time.
You can only hope not to do it often enough to get good at it.
GMY +5 Mpls MN USA, I'm trying to get the cover off from the top holes, 5 wasted, stay safe
does the cover snap off to reveal top holes, one side is loose, I don't want to break it
Job is done, little rubber gizmos attached upper and lower, it can be done with a toothpick, 25 is a conservative estimate, just when I got it in the other popped out, bent paper clip and time, now on to splitting the s16 cases to lube and maybe tighten, on hdwe setup it is consistently a -5 on j3
This is the method I use to secure the dampers in place. Only the first min of this video. You don't need foam on your camera.
This is how I install the dampers:
If, after you clean the sticks and they are working properly but still not returning to exactly zero, you may need to do a calibration. Only do a calibration if the sticks are not sluggish or erratic. They must be smooth and responsive.
This is how I install the dampers:
If, after you clean the sticks and they are working properly but still not returning to exactly zero, you may need to do a calibration. Only do a calibration if the sticks are not sluggish or erratic. They must be smooth and responsive.
All is complete, the j3 would not center, center is -5, split the st16 cases, lubed all 4 pots, reassenled and did the hdwe check and now +5, still steady beeps on startup, did the secret strtup, 3 quick taps, did the gymbal calibration and all lights green, no beeps on startup. model starts, responds well, 19 sats on both units. Landing gear operation good, landing is succesful, a little slower than usual but good landing. Ascend again movement is good and accurate, go to 100 feet and begin descent, at approx 15 feet alt it slows down, descends very slowly, rise rapidly to 40 feet and begin descent, good steady drop to 15 feet again and all slows down , maybe 1 foot per second, at approx 2 feet it starts to slowly drift, maybe a gust of wind, but slides to a landing. End of test flight. Complete shutdown, restart, and rise to 50 feet, cycle gear, descend to 15 feet and full slow descent but completes to ground at the slow rate. I think I know why some people hand catch these things. SO, all FW updated, pots lubed all good except for this 15 foot slowdown, any suggestions greatly appreciated Dave I
only on the last few feet due to the RS. No solution to avoid this except to remove physically the RS. Unchecking in the ST16 gives nothing. Drift near the ground is from RS too, You'll face more strange things, like virtual obstacles and so on. The use of RS is worthy if you want to fly in closed indoor areas and so on. For high altitude flights, it is useless.
I assume you are descending in rabbit mode and stick all the way down till 10 or 15 feet up then let it down steady but quickly . My h senses or seems to at about 2 feet off the ground and I'll down the stick and it great. KC
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